<=
/A>=20
Meet Real Free-Range Eggs
By Cheryl Long and Tabitha Alterman
Most of the eggs currently sold in supermarkets are nutritionally =
inferior to=20
eggs produced by hens raised on pasture. That=E2=80=99s the conclusion =
we have reached=20
following completion of the 2007 Mother Earth News egg testing project. =
Our=20
testing has found that, compared to official U.S. Department of =
Agriculture=20
(USDA) nutrient data for commercial eggs, eggs from hens raised on =
pasture may=20
contain:
=E2=80=A2 1/3 less =
cholesterol
=E2=80=A2 1/4 less=20
saturated fat
=E2=80=A2 2/3 more vitamin=20
A
=E2=80=A2 2 times more omega-3 fatty=20
acids
=E2=80=A2 3 times more vitamin =
E
=E2=80=A2 7=20
times more beta carotene
These amazing results come from 14 flocks around the =
country=20
that range freely on pasture or are housed in moveable pens that are =
rotated=20
frequently to maximize access to fresh pasture and protect the birds =
from=20
predators. We had six eggs from each of the 14 pastured flocks tested by =
an=20
accredited laboratory in Portland, Ore. The chart at the end =
of this=20
article shows the average nutrient content of the samples, compared =
with=20
the official egg nutrient data from the USDA for =
=E2=80=9Cconventional=E2=80=9D (i.e. from=20
confined hens) eggs. The chart lists the individual results from =
each=20
flock.
The 2007 results are similar to those from 2005, when we tested eggs =
from=20
four flocks all managed as truly free range. But our tests are not the =
first to=20
show that pastured eggs are more nutritious =E2=80=94 see =
=E2=80=9CMounting Evidence=E2=80=9D below=20
for a summary of six studies that all indicated that pastured eggs are =
richer in=20
nutrients than typical supermarket eggs.
We think these dramatically differing nutrient levels are most likely =
the=20
result of the different diets of birds that produce these two types of =
eggs.=20
True free-range birds eat a chicken=E2=80=99s natural diet =E2=80=94 all =
kinds of seeds, green=20
plants, insects and worms, usually along with grain or laying mash. =
Factory farm=20
birds never even see the outdoors, let alone get to forage for their =
natural=20
diet. Instead they are fed the cheapest possible mixture of corn, soy =
and/or=20
cottonseed meals, with all kinds of additives =E2=80=94 see =E2=80=9CThe =
Caged Hen=E2=80=99s Diet=E2=80=9D=20
below.
The conventional egg industry wants very much to deny that=20
free-range/pastured eggs are better than eggs from birds kept in =
crowded,=20
inhumane indoor conditions. A statement on the American Egg =
Board=E2=80=99s Web =
site
says=20
=E2=80=9CTrue free-range eggs are those produced by hens raised outdoors =
or that have=20
daily access to the outdoors.=E2=80=9D
Baloney. They=E2=80=99re trying to duck the issue by incorrectly =
defining =E2=80=9Ctrue=20
free-range.=E2=80=9D And the USDA isn=E2=80=99t helping consumers learn =
the truth, either:=20
=E2=80=9CAllowed access to the outside=E2=80=9D is how the USDA defines =
=E2=80=9Cfree-range.=E2=80=9D This=20
inadequate definition means that producers can, and do, label their eggs =
as=20
=E2=80=9Cfree-range=E2=80=9D even if all they do is leave little doors =
open on their giant=20
sheds, regardless of whether the birds ever learn to go outside, and =
regardless=20
of whether there is good pasture or just bare dirt or concrete outside =
those=20
doors!
Both organizations need to come clean. True free-range eggs are those =
from=20
hens that range outdoors on pasture, which means they can do =
what=E2=80=99s natural =E2=80=94=20
forage for all manner of green plants and insects.
The Egg Board statement goes on to say: =E2=80=9CThe nutrient content =
of eggs is not=20
affected by whether hens are raised free-range or in floor or cage=20
operations.=E2=80=9D
Again, that is hogwash. They think they can simply ignore the growing =
body of=20
evidence that clearly shows that eggs are superior when the hens are =
allowed to=20
eat their natural diet. Or maybe they think it=E2=80=99s OK to mislead =
the public to=20
protect egg producers=E2=80=99 bottom line.
After we published our first report about the high nutrient levels in =
pastured eggs, the Egg Nutrition Council questioned our =
=E2=80=9Csuggestion=E2=80=9D that=20
pastured eggs were better in their Aug. 8, 2005, newsletter:
=E2=80=9CBarring special diets or breeds, egg nutrients are most =
likely similar for=20
egg-laying hens, no matter how they are raised.=E2=80=9D There=E2=80=99s =
that double-speak,=20
again: =E2=80=9CBarring special diets ...=E2=80=9D Since when are diets =
not a part of how=20
chickens are raised? Come on, people, we=E2=80=99ve cited six studies =
(see "Mounting=20
Evidence", below) showing that pastured eggs are better. The best you =
can say is=20
=E2=80=9Cmost likely=E2=80=9D this evidence is wrong? Cite some science =
to support your=20
assertions! The U.S. Poultry and Egg Association offers the same =
misleading=20
statement on its Web=20
site:
=E2=80=9CWhat are free-range eggs? Free-range eggs are from hens that =
live outdoors=20
or have access to the outdoors. The nutrient content of eggs from =
free-range=20
hens is the same as those from hens housed in production facilities with =
cages.=E2=80=9D
It=E2=80=99s amazing what a group can do with a $20 million annual =
budget. That=E2=80=99s=20
what factory-farm egg producers pay to fund the AEB each year to =
convince the=20
public to keep buying their eggs, which we now believe are =
substandard.
The Egg Board=E2=80=99s misleading claims about free-range/pastured =
eggs pervade the=20
Internet, even though the Board has been aware of the evidence about the =
nutrient differences at least since our 2005 report. We found virtually =
the same=20
(unsubstantiated) claim denying any difference in nutrient content on =
Web sites=20
of the American Council on Science and Health (an industry-funded =
nonprofit),=20
the Iowa Egg Council, the Georgia Egg Commission, the Alberta (Canada) =
Egg=20
Producers, Hormel Foods, CalMaine Foods and NuCal Foods (=E2=80=9Cthe =
largest=20
distributor of shell eggs in the Western United States=E2=80=9D).
But the most ridiculous online comments turned up at http://www.supermarketguru.com/, a site maintained =
by a =E2=80=9Cfood=20
trends consultant.=E2=80=9D It says:
=E2=80=9CFREE RANGE: Probably the most misunderstood of all claims, =
it=E2=80=99s important to=20
note that hens basically stay near their food, water and nests, and the =
idea of=20
a happy-go-lucky bird scampering across a field is far from the natural =
way of=20
life. The claim only means that the hens have access to the outdoors, =
not that=20
they avail themselves of the opportunity. The hens produce fewer eggs so =
they=20
are more expensive; higher product costs add to the price of the eggs. =
The=20
nutrient content is the same as other eggs.=E2=80=9D
If you=E2=80=99ve ever been around chickens, you know that whoever =
wrote that hasn=E2=80=99t.=20
Chickens will spend almost their entire day ranging around a property =
scratching=20
and searching for food. Even as tiny chicks, they are naturally curious =
and will=20
begin eating grass and pecking curiously at any insects or even specks =
on the=20
walls of their brooder box. =E2=80=9CScampering across a field,=E2=80=9D =
looking for food, is=20
precisely their natural way of life.
Supermarket Guru did get one thing right, though. Free-range/pastured =
eggs=20
are likely to be more expensive because production costs are higher. As =
usual,=20
you get what you pay for. If you buy the cheapest supermarket eggs, you =
are not=20
only missing out on the valuable nutrients eggs should and can contain, =
you are=20
also supporting an industrial production system that treats animals =
cruelly and=20
makes more sustainable, small-scale egg production difficult.
You can raise pastured chickens easily right in your back yard =
=E2=80=94 see our=20
recent articles about how to do it here. Or you=20
can find pastured eggs at local farmstands and farmers markets, or =
sometimes at=20
the supermarket. Tell the store manager you want eggs from pastured =
hens, and=20
encourage the manager to contact local producers. To find pastured =
producers=20
near you, check out http://www.eatwild.com/ or http://www.localharvest.com/.
Why Pastured Eggs are the Best
"Customers get our eggs from the farm where they=E2=80=99re laid, so =
they see exactly=20
how the hens live: in healthy, humane conditions." =E2=80=93 Mark and =
Melissa Moeller,=20
Misty Meadows Farm
"Your egg testing is real culture-changing stuff, and I applaud =
Mother Earth=20
News in courageously moving forward with it." =E2=80=93 Joel Salatin, =
Polyface Farm
"My best marketing tool is my customers, who regularly tell people =
that these=20
are the best eggs they=E2=80=99ve ever had and worth every penny." =
=E2=80=93 Patryk Battle,=20
Sparkling Earth Farm
"We have many loyal customers who stand in line 30 minutes before the =
market=20
opens to get our eggs." =E2=80=93 George & Eiko Vojkovich, Skagit =
River Ranch
"We support Shady Grove Farm because it=E2=80=99s important to keep =
our local organic=20
farmers thriving. Best of all, the eggs taste better, are better for =
you, and=20
add amazing flavor (and color!) to our food." =E2=80=93 =
Rachel Rose,=20
restaurateur
"We preach to everyone that will listen: Don=E2=80=99t buy animal =
products unless you=20
can see the way they=E2=80=99re raised. If everyone bought that way, =
there wouldn=E2=80=99t be=20
industrial farms, and the small farmer could prosper again." =E2=80=93 =
Bill and Sharon=20
Moreton, Spring Mountain Farms
"We sell our eggs to several restaurant chefs =E2=80=94 =
they=E2=80=99ll pay three or more=20
times the price for pastured eggs over commercial." =E2=80=93David =
Smith, Springfield=20
Farm
"I=E2=80=99m in this for the joy chickens bring and healthful eggs, =
not profit.=20
Sitting on the porch watching the ladies in the yard is better than any =
therapy,=20
so they=E2=80=99re worth at least $100 an hour to me." =E2=80=93 Suzan =
Touchette, Windy Island=20
Acres
"I=E2=80=99m so fortunate to get fresh eggs from heirloom hens that =
spend their days=20
eating bugs, grass and weeds. Their eggs are the most flavorful =
I=E2=80=99ve ever eaten!=20
Plus, I appreciate knowing how fresh they are." =E2=80=93 Heidi Hunt, =
addicted to Red=20
Stuga eggs
"It=E2=80=99s a real pleasure to return to eggs that have quality of =
taste, texture=20
and looks. Now that I get the added benefit of less cholesterol and all =
the=20
nutrition, I am simply delighted." =E2=80=93 Danny G. Langdon, Misty =
Meadows maniac
The Caged Hen=E2=80=99s Diet
Here=E2=80=99s the ingredients list from =E2=80=9C16 percent Layer =
Crumbles,=E2=80=9D a feed designed=20
for hens raised in confinement: =E2=80=9CGrain Products, Plant Protein =
Products,=20
Processed Grain Byproducts, Roughage Products, Forage Products [in =
other=20
words, could contain pretty much anything! =E2=80=94 Mother], =
Vitamin A Supplement,=20
Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Vitamin B12 Supplement, =
Riboflavin=20
Supplement, Niacin Supplement, Calcium Pantothenate, Choline Chloride, =
Folic=20
Acid, Manadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex, Methionine Supplement, Calcium =
Carbonate, Salt, Manganous Oxide, Ferrous Sulfate, Copper Chloride, Zinc =
Oxide,=20
Ethylenediamine Dihydriodide, Sodium Selenite.=E2=80=9D
Mounting Evidence
- In 1974, the British Journal of Nutrition found that pastured eggs =
had 50=20
percent more folic acid and 70 percent more vitamin B12 than eggs from =
factory=20
farm hens.
- In 1988, Artemis Simopoulos, co-author of The Omega Diet, found =
pastured=20
eggs in Greece contained 13 times more omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty =
acids=20
than U.S. commercial eggs.
- A 1998 study in Animal Feed Science and Technology found that =
pastured=20
eggs had higher omega-3s and vitamin E than eggs from caged hens.
- A 1999 study by Barb Gorski at Pennsylvania State University found =
that=20
eggs from pastured birds had 10 percent less fat, 34 percent less =
cholesterol,=20
40 percent more vitamin A, and four times the omega-3s compared to the =
standard USDA data. Her study also tested pastured chicken meat, and =
found it=20
to have 21 percent less fat, 30 percent less saturated fat and 50 =
percent more=20
vitamin A than the USDA standard.
- In 2003, Heather Karsten at Pennsylvania State University compared =
eggs=20
from two groups of Hy-Line variety hens, with one kept in standard =
crowded=20
factory farm conditions and the other on mixed grass and legume =
pasture. The=20
eggs had similar levels of fat and cholesterol, but the pastured eggs =
had=20
three times more omega-3s, 220 percent more vitamin E and 62 percent =
more=20
vitamin A than eggs from caged hens.
- The 2005 study Mother Earth News conducted of four heritage-breed =
pastured=20
flocks in Kansas found that pastured eggs had roughly half the =
cholesterol, 50=20
percent more vitamin E, and three times more beta carotene.
- The 2007 results from 14 producers are shown here.
![3DQuantcast=20](3D"http://secure.quantserve.com/pixel/p-b6n2tA3BPGaiY.gif")